【POP服裝設(shè)計網(wǎng)】春夏最火爆牛油果綠流行色彩 _ 穿我！就現(xiàn)在

牛油果綠--讓這個夏天綠到底

從泛舊的黃綠色到青翠的果綠，一顆牛油果有好幾種偏黃調(diào)，但更暖的色調(diào)，漸變的色階給了設(shè)計師們充分的發(fā)揮空間，作為2019年春夏最火爆的顏色，牛油果綠可以小清新的同時又不乏高級感。牛油果綠在今夏席卷整個時尚行業(yè)。Colourpop、Nars的限量綠色眼影被瘋搶斷貨，各大服裝品牌紛紛推出牛油果色系的服裝搭配新款：妖嬈的緞面裙，清爽的襯衫，街頭感十足的西裝，仙氣的高定，沒有它 HOLD 不住的款式。從美妝（美甲）、配飾、到服裝，今夏都已被牛油果霸屏。

你沒發(fā)現(xiàn)的牛油果“復(fù)古氣質(zhì)”

牛油果綠很Now又很Vintage。1960s-1970s 間牛油果綠已經(jīng)是 IT Color，人們不僅把廚房、電話都涂成這個顏色，還制作了大量的綠色裙子、套裝、甚至泳裝。難怪牛油果綠表現(xiàn)出的不僅是青春活力，還洋溢著復(fù)古氣息。

INS時尚博主的牛油果綠

Aimee Song、Barbara、Brittany Xavier、Darja Barannik各大時尚博主早在早春就率先將牛油果穿在身上，帶領(lǐng)2019春夏刮起這陣綠色風(fēng)潮。

火出天際--牛油果穿搭大賽

牛油果真的太火爆，甚至微博都發(fā)起“牛油果穿搭大賽”，眾多網(wǎng)友紛紛曬出自己的牛油果穿搭，LOOK不輸INS博主造型。

剁手單品推薦--Maggie Marilyn

Maggie Marilyn：強烈奢華氣息與創(chuàng)新設(shè)計視角，來自新西蘭設(shè)計師Maggie Marilyn的作品有著獨樹一格的時尚魅力。2019春夏系列用了大量的牛油果色系打造充滿年輕活力的精致款式。

剁手單品推薦--Rejina Pyo

Rejina Pyo：冉冉上升的設(shè)計師 Rejina Pyo 為低調(diào)的女性氣質(zhì)注入了清新的時尚態(tài)度。 她的設(shè)計理念同時兼具精致和俏皮氣派：開衫、半身裙和紐扣領(lǐng)襯衫裙以自信的牛油果綠色處理而平衡著簡約的裁制。

剁手單品推薦--Shrimps

Shrimps：新銳皮草設(shè)計品牌Shrimps來自倫敦，創(chuàng)始人兼設(shè)計師對面料有著獨到的見解，本季更是將流行的牛油果綠與擅長的圖案巧妙結(jié)合呈現(xiàn)在服飾上，極富藝術(shù)美感。

剁手單品推薦--Cult Gaia

Cult Gaia：Instagram的出現(xiàn)造就了不少網(wǎng)紅品牌，來自洛杉磯的Cult Gaia就是其中之一。那款帶著建筑美學(xué)的立體竹籃袋Ark就是它家的。除了包包外，Cult Gaia的服裝度假系列也是非常值得推薦的。特別是清新牛油果色系的蕾絲度假長裙，絕對是2019春夏最夯的單品。

時尚Tips：綠色的恐怖秘密

牛油果綠席卷時尚行業(yè)成為2019春夏最火色系。一想到綠色，是否會浮現(xiàn)出健康與自然這種“正面形象”。然而遠在維多利亞時期的英國，綠色卻是代表著死亡。一家名為 Wilhelm Dye and White Lead的服裝公司研發(fā)出了一種新型染料。用這種獨特的染料染制的衣物更加光鮮亮麗，并將它命名為Emerald Green（巴黎綠）。然而這種鮮亮又美麗的染料是由砷構(gòu)成的?，F(xiàn)如今，科學(xué)的進步使曾經(jīng)稀有的綠色染料變得普遍，綠色不再是貴族的專權(quán)，成為了普通人也可以擁有的潮流。用來染制綠色衣物的也不再是劇毒的砷化物，而是利用自然的植物和礦石材料來調(diào)和的染劑。

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凜冽寒冬從“絨”面對：珊瑚絨、搖粒絨、法蘭絨它們有何不同？

寒意漸起，又到了穿各種 “絨”的季節(jié)，比如珊瑚絨、搖粒絨、法蘭絨、羊羔絨、燈芯絨等，它們材質(zhì)、用途有何不同？又有何優(yōu)缺點呢？

01

搖粒絨

搖粒絨面料是一種針織面料，小元寶結(jié)構(gòu)，正面拉毛蓬松密集，手感柔軟，具有彈性、保溫、耐磨、不掉毛、防蛀等優(yōu)點，但容易產(chǎn)生靜電，吸附灰塵，部分紡織品會經(jīng)過防靜電處理。搖粒絨有素色和印花之分，素色搖粒絨用抽條、壓花、提花工藝制作圖案；印花搖粒絨通過滲透、膠漿、轉(zhuǎn)印等工藝制作花型。搖粒絨色彩豐富，深受消費者喜愛，常用于服裝外套、童裝、衛(wèi)衣等。

02

羊羔絨

羊羔絨屬于化纖面料，一般指采用純滌綸或者滌綸與腈綸混紡纖維織造而成的紡織品，與羊毛面料相比其價格低廉。該類面料前處理經(jīng)過高溫縮水，不易產(chǎn)生褶皺、變形。面料具有觸感柔軟，耐磨、抗霉菌、抗蛀，彈性好等優(yōu)點，購買羊羔絨制品時，消費者應(yīng)注意與羊毛、羊絨制品區(qū)分，避免上當(dāng)、受騙。羊羔絨面料與其他面料進行復(fù)合，可實現(xiàn)更多功能性和服設(shè)計及多樣化，比如羊羔絨與牛仔布復(fù)合，常用于防寒外套、家居服、帽子、玩具、裝飾用品等。

03

燈芯絨

燈芯絨面料經(jīng)割緯起絨，表面形成一條條燈芯狀，故稱為燈芯絨，絨溝與絨毛所帶來的立體效應(yīng)，為燈芯絨服裝造型提供了更豐富的變化途徑和設(shè)計空間。燈芯絨面料具有手感柔滑，有彈性，絨條清晰豐滿，光照柔和、均勻等優(yōu)點，但條形方向撕破強力較低，領(lǐng)口、袖口及肘關(guān)節(jié)、膝關(guān)節(jié)等部位長期摩擦，絨毛容易脫落。燈芯絨常用于秋冬服裝、鞋帽面料、玩具、沙發(fā)面料、窗簾等。

04

珊瑚絨

珊瑚絨纖維密度高, 因呈現(xiàn)珊瑚般的體態(tài)而得名。纖維細度小，具有良好的柔軟性以及透濕性；表面反光弱，色澤淡雅、柔和；面料表面平整、質(zhì)地均勻、細膩, 手感柔軟有彈性, 保暖、服用性好。但其容易起靜電，積聚灰塵、產(chǎn)生刺癢，部分珊瑚絨面料會加入金屬纖維或經(jīng)防靜電整理劑處理，減少靜電。珊瑚絨面料還會出現(xiàn)掉毛現(xiàn)象，建議洗滌后再使用，皮膚過敏或有哮喘病史者不建議使用。珊瑚絨可以是純化學(xué)纖維或者化學(xué)纖維與植物纖維、動物纖維混紡織造而成，比如圣麻纖維、腈綸的混紡紗與滌綸混紡生產(chǎn)出的珊瑚絨，具有吸濕性能好，懸垂性好，色澤亮麗等特點，常用于睡袍、嬰兒制品、童裝、服裝內(nèi)里、鞋帽、玩具、家居飾品等。

05

法蘭絨

法蘭絨是一種機織類產(chǎn)品，指混色粗梳毛（棉）紗織制的具有夾花風(fēng)格的粗紡毛（棉）織物。具有光澤明亮、質(zhì)地柔軟、保溫性好等特點，但毛料法蘭絨面料容易產(chǎn)生靜電，并且長時間穿著或使用過程中，摩擦?xí)贡砻娼q毛脫落。法蘭絨和珊瑚絨相比，最大的區(qū)別是前者的光澤度更好、手感更柔軟，有更好的透氣性、透濕性、吸水性等性能。法蘭絨一般為棉或羊毛面料，羊毛與羊絨、桑蠶絲、萊賽爾纖維混紡可以改善面料的刺癢感，發(fā)揮混紡纖維的性能優(yōu)勢，穿著更加舒適。目前市場上也有以滌綸為原料織造出的與法拉絨功能及特點相似的仿法蘭絨面料，主要用于制作毛毯、睡衣、浴衣等產(chǎn)品。

來源：紡織科普博覽 中紡學(xué)科普部

探店--來自紐約的綠色概念設(shè)計師品牌

我們之前寫過

綠色環(huán)保時尚真的來了綠色時尚中國也來了

We have written beforeSustainable Fashion China is joining sustainable Fashion

這次就約到了一位紐約歸來的綠色概念設(shè)計師，這位年輕的設(shè)計師Cami 本是理工出身，從建筑大學(xué)畢業(yè)后，去紐約帕森斯設(shè)計學(xué)院學(xué)習(xí)服裝設(shè)計。理工人的嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)務(wù)實和藝術(shù)生的浪漫熱情，在她身上碰撞出了獨特的火花。

This time we introduce you a Chinese sustainable fashion designer came back from New York. Cami, a young designer with a background in science and engineering, studied Fashion Design in Parsons School of Design in New York after graduated from Beijing University of Civil Engineering and Architecture. The preciseness and pragmatic nature of science people and the romantic passion of art students collide in her in an interesting way and ignited some beautiful sparks.

這是她設(shè)計的獨家印花真絲牛仔褲。真絲的舒適飄逸和牛仔的灑脫自由，兩種原本不相干的元素就這樣奇妙地融合。

This is her exclusive denim print silk loose pants, combining the comfort and elegance of silk and the ease and freedom of denim. Two elements originally far-apart from each other seamlessly blend together In her design.

真絲特有的光澤賦予了牛仔印花更高級的美感，也使得這條牛仔褲有了更多元的應(yīng)用場景，比如搭配小洋裝和高跟鞋就是商務(wù)場景，在正式中有一絲活潑，還可以提高工作效率；搭配休閑上衣運動鞋就是休閑場景，而且?guī)е呒壊馁|(zhì)的品質(zhì)感；搭配蕾絲吊帶又立即成為聚光燈下流光溢彩的焦點所在。

The unique glimmer of silk gives denim print a more advanced aesthetic, and also brings in more diverse application scenarios, such as: 1 pairing with formal suit jackets and high heels for business scenarios, which adds a hint of liveliness to formal settings and improves work efficiency; 2 pairing with casual tops and sneakers for leisure scenarios, with a chic touch brough by prime fabrics; 3 pairing with sexy lace camisoles for parties, radiating charisma in spotlight.

注重材質(zhì)的品質(zhì)感和多元應(yīng)用場景的融合正是Cami 追求的風(fēng)格。

Prime fabrics and multiple application scenarios are precisely the styles Cami is seeking after.

致力于環(huán)保材質(zhì)是Cami 早在紐約學(xué)習(xí)期間就立下的志向。紐約的綠色時尚是走在行業(yè)前列的，學(xué)校里的老師也每天都會提到可持續(xù)綠色時尚的話題。她學(xué)成回國后正值疫情封控期間，長期封控中對大自然的向往，以及周圍越來越多的抑郁人群更讓她感到構(gòu)建和環(huán)境的平衡關(guān)系是多么重要和迫切，于是早先有關(guān)綠色時尚品牌的模糊構(gòu)想很快清晰起來，于是品牌誕生了。

Committing to sustainable fabrics had been Cami's long time ambition established early on during her studies in New York. Given New York's forefront status in sustainable fashion, teachers in school was almost mentioning the topic every single day. After completing her study, she came back to a lockdowned China during epidemic. With the longing for nature during the period, as well as the increasing number of depressed people around her, Cami was more than ever aware of the importance of a balanced relationship with the environment. So, the once vague idea about a sustainable fashion brand was clearing up quickly and the brand came into being subsequently.

這個品牌的兩個詞都是寓言中信使的名字，Cami 希望品牌也能成為一個信使，通過探索城市戶外美學(xué)，向大眾傳遞來自大自然的信息，讓人們更加關(guān)注內(nèi)心的聲音，在探索世界的同時，把生活調(diào)回自己喜歡的頻道。

Both words in the brand name are the names of messengers in fables, and Cami hopes the brand can also become a messenger. By exploring urban outdoors aesthetics, the brand will convey messages from the nature to people, helping people listening to their inner voices, and while exploring the world, returning their lives to favorite rhythm.

品牌追求跨場景應(yīng)用，也是順應(yīng)后疫情時代人們對工作生活平衡關(guān)系的新追求。網(wǎng)絡(luò)時代的工作從辦公空間入侵到了生活場域，所以在高強度的工作里塞進生活也是年輕人的必備生活技能。 用高級舒適的面料和休閑風(fēng)格的設(shè)計滿足上班和休閑兩種需求，正是現(xiàn)代生活的新節(jié)奏，就和好多人穿著瑜伽褲去上班一樣，輕松的狀態(tài)既能提高工作效率，又方便下班后直接去休閑放松。

The brand's pursuit of cross-scenario applications is also in line with people's new work-life-balance need in the post pandemic era. In the internet age, work has invaded from office space to people's life, so incorporating life into high-intensity work is becoming a necessary life skill. Apparels for both work and leisure times with comfortable fabrics and casual styled designs are the new fashion trend, just like many people wearing yoga pants to work, which is not only enhancing work efficiency, but also convenient for leisure time relaxation after work.

The prime fabrics and concise designs are good for office, and the overall casual style is also good for parties and even hikings arond cities.

做這樣一個產(chǎn)品線，重中之重就是面料要足夠高級和舒適，比如秋冬就有幾款衛(wèi)衣是用小香風(fēng)面料制作的，是Chanel同款供應(yīng)商的面料。以及我們在前面提到的真絲印花牛仔面料，都是市面上最好的材料。

The most important thing in creating such a product line is to have high-quality and comfortable fabrics. Several sweaters for Autumn and Winter are made of same fabrics of Chanel's tweed jackets, from exactly the same fabric supplier for Chanel. And the denim print silk we mentioned earlier is also the best fabric in the market.

而且夏天的短袖都是嬰兒級別的薄荷纖維a類面料，夏天還有防蟲的功能，是有專利認證的材質(zhì)，用理工人的科學(xué)精神搞定的面料果然靠譜.

And short sleeves T-shirts for Summer are all made of A-class mint fabric, which is even good for babies. The patented fabric also has insects prevention function. Here，Cami's science nature emerges again.

設(shè)計師在面料科學(xué)創(chuàng)新的同時還玩出了趣味性。這條夏款牛仔褲的面料里有可以降溫的玉石粉在里面，還有一個專利吊牌，而且這個吊牌是一個手工紙，里面有薄荷種子，放在水里就可以種出薄荷來，好玩吧，理工生的科學(xué)和藝術(shù)生的浪漫又一次完美融合

The designer is also having fun in the fabric innovaion. The fabric of this summer jeans has cooling jade powder in it. Besides, there is also another patented hand-made label attached to the jeans, in which there are mint seeds inside. If you put the label into water, it can really grow mints. Isn't that fun? Once again, the designer's science thinking and romantic passion perfectly integrated

說到面料的高級，Lora Piana是一個典范。他們的版型很簡單，但是材質(zhì)做到了極致，比如他們會承包專門的區(qū)域養(yǎng)殖駱馬以獲得專用的駱馬毛，而這種極致也是MuninnBran品牌的追求。

When it comes to advanced fabrics, Lora Piana is a role model. With very simple designs, their products have superb fabrics, the best on earth. They even have specialized farm for breeding camels to obtain specialized camel hair. This spirit is also the pursuit for MuninnBran brand.

品牌有的設(shè)計很新穎，但是設(shè)計師并不追求特別時髦的風(fēng)格，還是比較大眾化的款式，但是用創(chuàng)新環(huán)保的面料和技術(shù)，給大家?guī)聿灰粯拥捏w驗。時尚行業(yè)對環(huán)境的污染太嚴(yán)重了，所以環(huán)保是大家都必須重視的課題。

The brand has some novel designs, but overall the designer does't pursue fancy styles, she prefers simple designs and rather puts much more effort into innovative and sustainable fabrics and technologies to bring a different experience to people. Right now the fashion industry is causing too much pollution, so environmental protection is a topic that everyone must pay attention to.

現(xiàn)在MuninnBran主推牛仔系列，牛仔很實穿，很有特點，經(jīng)久不衰，見面時設(shè)計師就穿著一件自己設(shè)計的中長款牛仔獵裝，四個口袋，帶腰帶，非常實用方便。用牛仔跟其他面料拼接，玩面料之間的碰撞，也很有意思。小眾品牌做牛仔的人并不多，Cami 希望MuninnBran可以成為牛仔的領(lǐng)軍品牌，大家提到MuninnBran就會想到牛仔，提到牛仔就會想到MuninnBran。

MuninnBran is mainly promoting denim collections. Denim is very practical, distinctive, and long-lasting. For our meeting, Cami was also wearing a mid length denim hunting jacket with four pockets and a long belt, which is very practical and convenient. It is also very interesting to piece denim together with other fabrics. There are not many niche brands making jeans. Cami hopes MuninBran can become a leading brand for jeans, and people would think of jeans mentioning MuninnBran, and think of MuninnBran mentioning jeans.

牛仔面料可以有很多種玩法，比如這款裹身半裙打開穿就是一件牛仔披風(fēng)，有藍黑兩色可選。

There are many ways to play with denim fabric, such as this wrap skirt can also be worn as a denim cape, available in blue and black.

牛仔甚至可以做晚裝，Cami 正在做一件牛仔晚裝，用藍色彈力面料，做出拉毛的效果，看起來是那種皮膚衣的感覺，然后用牛仔面料做裝飾。很期待看到成衣的效果哦。

Denim can also be used in evening gowns. Cami is actually working on one these days. It's a tight-fitting dress made of blue elastic napping fabric, and then denim fabric would be used as decoration. Can't wait to see the final look.

也期待MuninnBran品牌這個信使，能把綠色環(huán)保的品牌理念傳遞給大家，讓大家更加親近大自然，并從中找到令自己舒服的平衡和節(jié)奏。

We can't wait either to see MuninnBran, as a messenger, to convey the brand concept of sustainablitly to more people, help more people to get closer to nature and find a comfortable balance and rhythm from it.

Vocabularies:

ignite 點燃

spark 火花

exclusive 獨家

aesthetic 美學(xué)

scenario 場景

subsequently 隨后

cape 披風(fēng) 、

evening gown 晚裝

sustainablitly 可持續(xù)發(fā)展

rhythm 節(jié)奏